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| The rise of Dion Lee |
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The pressure on Dion Lee to perform this year at Australian Fashion Week was enough to crack the most experienced designer, let alone a 24-year-old with just a few collections under his belt. After an overwhelmingly positive reaction to his first solo show last year, the anticipation building up to Lee's spring/summer 10/11 collection has been palpable. But in a highly sophisticated presentation held in the Northern Foyer of the Sydney Opera House Concert Hall first thing this morning, Lee revealed a flawless collection that sent shivers down the spine of those privileged enough to be in attendance. The unassuming designer delivered, and then some.
This season, Lee played with the concepts of facades. "The tension between something controlled and something subconscious and less inhibited." The show opened with the superbly structured black suiting Lee is fast becoming famous for, updated with panels of mesh "scaffolding" in shocks of electric blue and purple. Next came laser-cut patterns on slim trousers and skirts that had viewers craning forward in seats to absorb the intricate detailing, while other pieces were sliced away under the arms to subtly reveal bare skin. The illusionary theme carried through the collection, with jackets appearing double-fronted or wrapped into a miniskirt. And then there was the print. Ultraviolet ink blots of the kind usually encountered in a psychiatrist's office swam across body-con shift dresses, structured skirts and blazers. Lavender and duck-egg blue were made thoroughly modern in Lee's hands, especially when pleated, draped and knotted into short fluid dresses.
The result was spectacular. It is a rare thing when a young designer is able to express their ideas and themes with such clarity and discipline. Lee's unconventional use of new materials, impeccable technical tailoring and sense of restraint demonstrated a maturity beyond his years. We can't wait to see what the future holds for this promising talent. -Genevra Leek
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InStyle cover girl: Katherine Heigl
Stars in Australian designers
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